tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4773370276862539169.post7360387386319417752..comments2024-03-24T03:23:46.858-06:00Comments on This Rat Sailed: Removing The Cutlass Bearing - or - I Need To Work On My PlanningMike Boydhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14279932231094933575noreply@blogger.comBlogger8125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4773370276862539169.post-49800285043163896882021-12-04T12:57:59.306-07:002021-12-04T12:57:59.306-07:00Hi Breeze,
For the old vintage Leopard 38's (...Hi Breeze,<br /><br />For the old vintage Leopard 38's (1999, early 2000) the parts manual states "CUTLASS BEARING FOR SHAFT 30MM PHENOLIC SHELL VETUS RL3045PH"<br /><br />And...translated, that is a 45mm outer diameter, and 30mm inner diameter, phenolic shell(not metal)...so there are several options out there.<br /><br />Hope this helps.Mike Boydhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14279932231094933575noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4773370276862539169.post-7471349926443755702021-12-04T12:36:00.455-07:002021-12-04T12:36:00.455-07:00Hi, would you know the actual size of cutlass bear...Hi, would you know the actual size of cutlass bearing?Breezehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08707532202113201008noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4773370276862539169.post-45330666499347555452015-07-22T19:12:29.994-06:002015-07-22T19:12:29.994-06:00Hey Doug,
Yes, I consulted the Oracle (google) be...Hey Doug,<br /><br />Yes, I consulted the Oracle (google) before starting this...or for that fact most any...project. In this case, the better information was found on the LeopardCat users group.<br /><br />The shaft doesn't need to be removed and, in fact, it can be done in the water (although I would imagine that would be a big pain in the butt). It has all worked out rather well actually...except for needing to check the alignment once it is back in the water.Mike Boydhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14279932231094933575noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4773370276862539169.post-78614499031153609292015-07-22T18:58:31.774-06:002015-07-22T18:58:31.774-06:00Hi Mike,
Cruising World has several online article...Hi Mike,<br />Cruising World has several online articles on cutlass and bearing removal- although they are usually for monohulls and boats with struts. Many of those call for the removal of drive shaft which doesn't seem to be needed in your case. Perhaps you've already read the articles. Sounds like you are well on your way. Hope it cools down and good luck.<br />Doug in VTAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4773370276862539169.post-30111202639172898682015-07-20T16:37:22.783-06:002015-07-20T16:37:22.783-06:00Hey Alan,
You are correct that ideally alignment ...Hey Alan,<br /><br />You are correct that ideally alignment should be done with the boat sitting in the water for at least a day. The catch is that there are some things that can only be adjusted on land, during assembly (or original build). Basically there are two different alignments and one is rarely considered since there is usually very little you can do about it. The one you can usually adjust is the engine to shaft alignment. The other is the alignment of the shaft in the shaft log (tube), seals and bearings.<br /><br />Of course, your "wild theory" actually touches on the other alignment issue. The bearing holder, since it comes out on my boat, could theoretically become mis-aligned compared to the idea path of the shaft through the boat. Excessive sealant or it drying while the boat is hanging could cause this. An overzealous mechanic or prior owner could have slightly bent something along the way or forced the holder in to the log slightly cocked so it doesn't quite point in the right direction (the flange on the holder did seem to have a very slight bend in it that could cause the wear encountered...and we corrected before pressing in the new bearing). This is the alignment stuff that needs to be thought of before it goes back in the water...and as I hinted at, am doing my best to see if I can get as right as possible before it goes in.<br /><br />After that, the only thing to do is launch the boat, let it sit, and then do the engine-to-shaft alignment and hope the result resolves the issue. I think it might...and so I am heading in that direction.Mike Boydhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14279932231094933575noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4773370276862539169.post-41005369283073607882015-07-20T10:10:09.159-06:002015-07-20T10:10:09.159-06:00Hi Mike,
I have heard that the shaft alignment can...Hi Mike,<br />I have heard that the shaft alignment can only be accurately done when the boat is floating as the hull will deflect because of the pressure points from the supports.<br /><br />Wild theory.......<br />How much sealant is inside the stern tube? Perhaps the shaft is in alignment when floating but the cutlass bearing was held out of alignment by the sealant.... If a lot of sealant was used and set while the boat was on the hard (and shaft out of alignment because of the deflection) then once back in the water, the shaft returned to normal state, but the cutlass bearing was held out of alignment by the sealant.<br />cheers,<br />AlanDuffhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06032241766501307186noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4773370276862539169.post-26609028216780655552015-07-20T05:56:02.342-06:002015-07-20T05:56:02.342-06:00Interesting trick with the zip ties...will have to...Interesting trick with the zip ties...will have to remember that one. Living on a boat on the hard isn't what I would describe as fun though...especially in this heat.Mike Boydhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14279932231094933575noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4773370276862539169.post-79184473977097054552015-07-19T20:46:18.770-06:002015-07-19T20:46:18.770-06:00The nut you wanted for safety could have been done...The nut you wanted for safety could have been done with 2 zip cable ties. But your prop did not jump off.<br /><br />Sorry I am missing all the fun!<br /><br />Cheers<br /><br />RoscoeAnonymousnoreply@blogger.com